RCMP Museum ~ Musée de la GRC

JULY:

Wednesday, 8th --- Left the Commission Camping ground at Dufferin, about 5 p.m., and moved out to the little lake, distance two miles. Several teams very baulky in moving off.

Thursday, 9th ---Found we could not transport all the stuff we had started with, returned a quantity of things into store, viz., 2 loads of syrup & c. When about to move off had to place Inspector R--- in arrest for using insubordinate language. Went over a mile past the bend of the Marais River, but had to turn back to the bend, as there was no other water in the vicinity. Soil excellent, but no wood from the little lake to the Marais.

Friday, 10th ---Taylor, the guide, does not appear to know much about the road. I cannot find out about water on north side of Line. Sent Taylor on. Marched at 2:30. Arrived opposite St. Armand’s about 6:30. Camped about 3000 yards north of the Boundary Line, but had to send the horses across to Pembina River, in U.S. territory, for water. Had to break a road for ourselves. Good land but no timber or water. An excellent well at St. Armand’s, another at Grant’s. Probably plenty of water could be obtained by digging wells, the above two are only 10 or 12 feet deep.

Saturday, 11th ---Marched at 9:30 parallel to the B. Com. road, which is U.S. territory hereabouts. Watered horses and cattle at a pond near the 20 mile post on the Boundary Line, opposite Grant’s. Bought two yokes for oxen and some collars, also some firewood, which we had to carry to our next camping ground. Struck B. Com. road at the 23 mile post, and followed it for 7 miles more. Camped beside a marshy pond which had dried up. Got a few buckets of water by digging in mud; land good; no wood or water.

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Sunday, 12th ---There being no wood or water at last camping place marched at 5:15 a.m. for Pembina Mountain Depot, arriving there about 8:15. Good land, well timbered in vicinity of Mountain; tolerably good watering place at Depot. Heavy thunderstorm in afternoon, hailstones nearly as large as walnuts. In early part of the day large flights of grasshoppers were observed going east.

Halt of the NWMP at the foot of the Pembina Mountains

Monday, 13th ---Marched at 5 with oxen. Horses at 5:30. Teams of oxen in waggons at 6; broke a pole and reach en route. Several carts broke down, and a great deal of time lost. The country passed over very fine and park-like. Land good, a fair amount of timber scattered about. Rose to summit of Calf Mountain by several successive plateaus 15 to 20 feet above preceding ones. The Pembina Ridge, which is probably 300 feet above the prairie, slopes off to the north very gradually. Arrived at Calf Mountain about 4:30 and camped 1 ½ miles beyond.

Tuesday, 14th ---Marched at 7, reached the bank of the Pembina River about 9. Bank very steep; halted on river. Great delay in taking teams up the steep bank on east side, brought most of them up by ox teams hooked on ahead of the horses. Camped 7 miles east of river. Land of fair quality, numbers of boulders about. Wood on the Pembina River and in patches to Calf Mountain. River water good. Half-breeds and ox carts did not arrive till after midnight. Pembina River valley might afford a large tract for settlement. Fish in river. River 12 yards wide and 2 feet deep, not much current. Met Mr. Levallee and 5 half-breeds with 12 ponies and 6 carts containing presents for Indians, & c.

Wednesday, 15th ---Started at 7 a.m. Watered at Badger Creek (unmarked in Boundary Comm. map) and halted at Long River before noon. The half-breeds and oxen could not be got to start on time, and did not arrive until 3 or 4 in the afternoon, marching in the hottest part of the day. There appears to be no system amongst them, they are consequently not in camp yet, 11 p.m., and probably will not start in time to-morrow. Land of fair quality, water in Long and Badger Rivers good. Now camped on White Earth River (called Badger River in B. Com. map). Land not so good in this vicinity, rolling prairie, no trees except on rivers.

A Band of Sioux on the March

Thursday, 16th ---Left at 7 a.m. Camped at coule half way to Turtle Mountain Depot. No wood. Land not so good as hitherto, grass short and stunted. Arrived at the Depot at 8 p.m. Several more ox carts broke down.

Friday, 17th ---Left Depot 7 a.m. Delayed 1 1/2 hour at a mud hole. Overshot the proper watering place and consequently had a long march in the heat of the day; several horses played out. The oxen did not start with us, and I saw nothing of them all day. Left a few men behind with Macleod to repair carts. Boundary Commission road apparently changed, makes the road longer. Did not arrive at Turtle Head Creek until after 9 at night, and then found no grass. Used some of last years B. Com. hay, but horses did not care for it; did not pitch tents, men lying under waggons, & c. Land of fair quality, gravel shewing near surface. Good wood on Turtle Mountain. Water in large quantity, apparently White Water Lake, about 6 miles north of Mountain.

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Saturday, 18th ---Started at 4 a.m. Morning hot, with strong, warm, wind. Horses very weak. Stopped at 10 a.m. at marsh, one mile south of road, and 14 miles from Turtle Head Creek. Several waggons lagging behind, owing to horses playing out. Prairie set on fire by carelessness on the part of either our men, or the half-breeds of Mr. Levallee’s party, hard to find out which. Marched at 2:30, and arrived at the first crossing of the Souris about 7. Morning march good land; timber all along slopes of Turtle Mountain. Afternoon, no wood in vicinity of line of march; gravelly subsoil. Two horses left on road, being unfit to travel. River about twenty yards wide, and 2 to 4 feet in depth, considerable current.

Sunday, 19th ---Camped at the Souris; splendid camping place, good water; gravelly bottom; wood and grass. Men thoroughly enjoyed their first day of rest. Bathing, washing clothes, & c. Macleod arrived in the afternoon, and all the oxen and carts were up by evening. Two horses had to be left on the road. The Boundary Commission people may find them and bring them in.

Monday, 20th ---Remained all day camped on the Souris, shoeing horses, repairing carts, transferring loads, &c. Held an investigation into the fact of one of our men (Pierre Lucas) leaving a horse behind. He stated that the horse could not move, and that he was pursued by five Indians whom he fired at. I do not believe his statement. Two horses died, one from being worked when sick.

Tuesday, 21st ---Marched at 5:30 a.m. Mid-day halt on North Antler Creek. Weather very hot and oppressive, several horses played out. Left an Act. Con. and five men with an ox-cart, to bring on those horses which could not keep up, (nine altogether). Camped at night on the south side of the North Antler Creek. Grass very poor, being dried up, or eaten up by grasshoppers. Soil poor, gravelly during the morning march, and sandy near the crossing of the Creek. Night very warm, which is quite unusual, the previous night the barometer falling to 44 although it had been up to 99 during same day.

Wednesday, 22nd ---Started at 6 a.m., weather not quite so warm, soil better. No wood or water during morning march or afternoon march till arrival at the second crossing of the Souris; good ford here, but approaches very steep. The hindermost waggons delayed several hours. Horses apparently doing better. I insisted on men dismounting and walking on foot every alternate hour, and propose continuing this to relieve the horses. River 10 yards wide, and from 1 to 2 feet deep, strong current flowing south.

Thursday, 23rd ---Started at 5:15. A, B and C Troops had 12 horses missing, kept them all back until they were found. A lot of oxen and cattle not to be found. Macleod as usual, was in the rear, and would not let any carts start till the cattle were found. Camped at the hill of the “Murdered Scout”, or Riviere des Lacs, and remained all day. Weather dreadfully hot. A number of officers and men suffering from diarrhoea. A horse died from rupture, over-driven. No wood or water en route, poor soil.

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Friday, 24th ---Left at 4 a.m. Great rivalry between the Troops as to who should be off first. “A” Troop got off at 3:30, marched 16 miles to St. Peter’s Springs, found a dirty mud-hole, set to work and made several wells, placed a barrel in one and banked it round with stones for the benefit of Macleod, and any others who might come on. Watered nearly 300 hoses from this well. Soil generally poor, no wood or water of consequence. In afternoon marched for Roches Percees and passed it, camping on the banks of the Souris at Short Creek. Very good camping ground, wood, water and grass.

Saturday, 25th ---Camped on the Souris, and propose remaining a few days to rest horses and oxen, and break up train, taking with the main body merely what is absolutely necessary. Shurtliff came in about 11 a.m. and reported his arrival. He is camped 10 miles west, at Wood End Depot, on the Boundary Commission road, has been there for four days; has only 6 horses for me, having sent some to Fort Garry to draw out provisions for his own party. Chapman and Dr. Nevitt arrived, bringing letters; they left the iron hopples behind; left one horse on the road played out, not to be wondered at considering the thoughtless way they drove, starting late and driving fast.

Sunday, 26th ---Weather still very fine, thermometer fell to 32 last night, rising to 86 in the afternoon. Had regular church parade under the senior officer of each persuasion; I took the Church of England party myself, the number being in excess of all the other persuasions. Much pleased to hear many of the men singing hymns in the afternoon and evening; unfortunately, the language of a great many is by no means Scriptural.

Divine services in camp on Sundays

Monday, 27th ---At work dividing stores for Edmonton, Fort Ellice, and Bow River. Have to superintend the whole work myself.

Tuesday, 28th ---Dividing stores and assorting them, drew out a number of the waggons for Fort Ellice, Edmonton and Bow River. Most of the officers and men, who had time, visited the Roche Percee. There is a good vein of coal here, we tried some in the forge and it burned well; it has, however, more the appearance of lignite than of true coal.

Wednesday, 29th ---Finished with the stores, paraded all the horses, and told off 55 of the weakest for Fort Ellice, under Jarvis. Took the horses of “A” Troop, and divided them amongst the others. Great delay in starting, did not leave until 6 p.m. Arrived at Wood End Depot about 9 p.m. I have now broken up the train and feel relieved. Jarvis takes 55 horses, 24 waggons, 55 carts, 62 oxen and 50 cows and calves to Edmonton and Ellice; also, 6 sick men and 12 half-breeds, Shurtliff’s party of 7, and about a dozen of his own men and quartermaster.

Thursday, 30th ---Remained all day at Wood End Depot to allow men to cook and bake 3 days rations, and secure a supply of wood for 3 days more, as it is doubtful whether we will be able to get wood for a week. Made a road across the river. I narrowly escaped a bad injury, my horse falling in one of the countless badger holes that are about, throwing me some distance over his head. Writing official reports and letters, sending off pay lists, & C., did not get to bed until after 12 and up again at 4 a.m. Coal exposed on river bank.

Friday, 31st ---Started at 5:30 a.m. Crossed Long River, had to make a road for ourselves and steer by compass, although Levallee took a very good course naturally. Course generally till mid-day halt 266 , or 4 south of the magnetic west by the prismatic compass. I took careful bearings all day and noted the distances by the odometer. Road very rough and uneven; I do not wonder at the trail in this direction being abandoned. Afternoon course 248 with a bend 290 for a mile after we struck Long River. The course was a little too much south, according to my calculation, but I did not interfere with the guide, who did very well indeed. Crossed Long River about 6 p.m. Sent out and found Boundary Road ½ mile west as I expected. Camped at crossing. Land poor; no wood; water in pools in Long River.

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AUGUST:

Saturday, 1st ---Started 5:45 a.m. Good road marching parallel to Long River and the coteau of the Missouri. Crossed the Long River about 14 miles on, and halted at crossing. A large number of ducks were shot along the river, I got about 25 myself. Crossed Long River again about 6 p.m., and camped at a marsh 2 miles beyond; excellent grass, but had to go 3/4 mile to the river for good water. On Monday my sketch of the Boundary Commission Road will give out, and I shall be completely in the hands of guides. Land poor, no wood at all. Fired a rocket for a man who was absent; although fired at a distance it frightened a number of the horses who stampeded as fast as their hopples would let them; but were stopped at once by the picquets and extra men turned out in anticipation of such an event.

Sunday, 2nd ---Camped all day; service 10:30 a.m. Had a long pow-wow with guides. Found that one of them was a regular imposter, by asking him the distances apart of certain places, knowing the true distances myself. This one says he speaks Blackfoot, I hope his Blackfoot will not be such an imposition.

Monday, 3rd ---Started at 5:30. Made a long march of 16 miles in morning; still between the coteau and Long River. Marched 10 miles further in the afternoon. Soil poor, herbage scanty, no wood. Those Troops that did not carry enough wood on their waggons are now beginning to feel the effects of their thoughtlessness.

Tuesday, 4th ---Tremendous thunderstorm between 12 and 1 a.m. Nearly all the tents blown down. In great anxiety lest the horses should stampede; fortunately, had ordered in most of them before the storm broke over us. Two lots of horses broke away, but were stopped by the picquets. Marched at 7 a.m. Ascended the coteau about 8:30 a.m., and halted at 9:30. As our road was to break off from the Boundary Commission Road at this point, sent Macleod and six carts to Wood Mountain by this road, for pemmican. We struck in a N.N.W. direction, making a road for ourselves over a very rough undulating country, descending the coteau, which we need not have ascended if the guides knew the country properly. Afternoon hot, which with bad roads played out several horses.

Storm on the 3rd of August

Wednesday, 5th ---Started at 6:30. Stopped when about a mile out to get wood, having found by accident a small clump on the face of the coteau. Two men lost last night, had a gun and rocket fired; they both, fortunately, turned up all right to-day, being pretty well frightened at the idea of being so easily lost on the prairie. Horses of “B” and “C” Troops lagging behind. Made up my mind to forego an afternoon march, as we had good water and grass on the Souris, and several waggons were behind. Soil poor, grass on plains parched up, no food for horses except in little valleys, or along the beds of rivers or coules.

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Thursday, 6th ---Left at 6 a.m. Marching for Dirt Hill. Halted at 11 a.m. at coule, 11 ½ miles from starting point; got a good observation of the sun, and fixed the latitude at 49 55'40". In afternoon pushed on to Dirt Mountain, a gradual slope leading to foot of mountain and then a very abrupt ascent. I would estimate the altitude of the mountain to be 1,000 feet above the adjoining plain; very severe work on horses, especially the gun horses; land poor, pasture dried up. Prairie on fire in the distance, and fire seems to have run along the Souris for a considerable distance.

Crossing the Dirt Hills

Friday, 7th ---Horses so played out by the severe ascent of the Dirt Hill that I resolved to give them a day’s rest. Took observations for time, magnetic variation and latitude; found the variation to be 19 E., the latitude by sun 50 0'29". Observed for latitude by Pole Star at 3 a.m. on the 8th, and found it 49 59'8". These observation checked by those of 6th to 8th, allowing for course and distance run, would place the top of Dirt Hill in latitude 49 58'46". Dr. Kittson found the mean reading of the barometer for evening of the 6th, the whole of the 7th and morning of the 8th to be 27'404, and estimates the top of the Hill to be 2,900 feet above the sea level. Thermometer, max. 91 , min. 51 .

Saturday, 8th ---Started at 5:30, descended Dirt Hill and made for gap in File Mountain, road hilly; halted when 12 miles out. Fortunately struck an old trail or the guide would have brought us altogether out of our way. When 7 or 8 miles from our noon halt, ascended a high hill, and to my delight saw the Old Wives Lake about 10 miles west. There being no water, and to-morrow being Sunday, determined to push on to the lakes. Struck a small lake which proved to be salt, had to push on another couple of miles. Camped on southern extremity of lake. Many of the waggons not in till 10 or 11 o’clock, and some did not arrive until next morning.

Sunday, 9th ---Enjoying our day of rest, men bathing, washing, & c. Had the horses well washed, which they appeared to approve of. The feed for the poor horses is very bad, and the water is slightly brackish, just enough so to purge some of the weak horses.

Monday, 10th ---The feed being poor resolved to push on a few miles for better feed if possible. Engaged in taking angles about the southern end of the lake to determine roughly its position. It is altogether larger than the one shown in Palliser’s map, and over 20 miles more east. Marched in afternoon to another Bay of Lake, about 6 miles west; feed little better. The saline water and bad feed is telling severely on the horses. Propose moving to-morrow to Old Wife’s Creek. About 25 miles off, met Macleod with 4,700 lbs. of pemmican and dried meat from Wood Mountain.

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Tuesday, 11th ---Marched at 6 a.m., morning raw and cold. Could get no feed or water until noon, and then both were indifferent. In afternoon marching up the hill told severely on the unfortunate half-starved hoses. Camped in the evening on a creek, which flows into the Old Wife’s Creek. Feed still very bad; land the same as usual, hills and hollows, gravel close to surface; the grass parched and ground cracked and fissured from the dryness and heat of the atmosphere. A ten minutes hailstorm at Pembina Mountain is almost the total amount of moisture we have been subjected to.

Wednesday, 12th ---Started at 9:30 a.m., but had to wait until our advanced guard had cut down a hill to a reasonable slope. Halted near creek when about 5 miles out. The feed here looks much better, and I propose remaining till our horses pick up a little. A Sioux Indian came into camp this morning, and his party are to pay a formal visit to-morrow. It appears there has been a fight near Cypress Hills, the half-breeds say that the Blackfeet were urged on by the Yankee traders to attack them or steal their horses. The half-breeds and Sioux appear to have killed all the Blackfeet, and I should not be surprised to find that the Sioux were at the bottom of the whole affair.

Thursday, 13th ---Camped at Old Wives Creek. Our Indian friends arrived about 10 a.m. We had a formal pow-wow; they want to know why are we coming this way, and grunted out their satisfaction when I told them that the White Mother had heard that the American outlaws had killed some of her red children, and that she sent me, with these braves, to capture the men who did it. I impressed upon them the fact that we did not want their land, and I think civilization will be hard pushed for room when it requires the coteau of the Missouri, at least for agricultural purposes.

The great Pow Wow with the Sioux on August 13th, 1874

Friday, 14th ---Camped at same place. The interpreter tells me that this party of Sioux have given me the name of “Wachasta Sota”, which signifies, I believe, “Man with power”. Several Sioux about the camp got up a dance and song, the burden of which was, the Blackfeet would be crying tonight; the singer, being one of the party in the late fight, and having scalped a Blackfoot, he felt pretty good over it. Have heard that the Boundary Commission have oats to spare at Wood Mountain, and have despatched Macleod with 16 carts to get some.

Saturday, 15th ---At same place. A waggon and 11 carts with dried meat and pemmican passed to-day, had them searched for liquor, but found none; they belonged to a man named Ouillette; they report poor grass ahead. A camp of over 100 tents of half-breeds, Crees, Saulteaux, & c., four days march off, say halfway to Cypress Mountain. They are awaiting the buffalo. Shoeing and repacking waggons and carts.

Sunday, 16th ---A scout came in with our guide from Wood Mountain, he is a hard looking case, describes himself as a trapper, and says he trapped on the Bow River 3 years ago. Many think him a spy for the outlaws.

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Monday, 17th ---Had arranged to march. Macleod’s carts did not arrive, but he himself came and brought Herchmer along.

Tuesday, 18th ---I find he has purchased 60,000 lbs. of oats from the Boundary Commission, and, although the price is high, I approved his purchase. Oats, at any price, is a Godsend to the poor horses. I purchased a fine horse from Herchmer. Macleod got a pony, and I got five from a half-breed. Every little helps.

Wednesday, 19th ---Marched about 9 to a pond about 2 miles north-west of our old camp; formed a depot there, leaving Constable Sutherland and 7 men (5 of whom were sick), also a half-breed, 26 sick and weak horses, and a dozen waggons. Marched 12 miles more in the afternoon, and camped on creek. The gun teams doing well. The Boundary Commission horse and the stallion drawing well.

Thursday, 20th ---Started at 6:30; sent back two waggons to the depot, having eaten up or issued the oats contained in them; took the wheels of one with us and packed the body in the other waggon, sending it back with two of the poorest horses. Made a good march of 21 ½ miles over undulating land. No wood; very little water; grass very poor; soil the same hungry description, which is apparently universal on the Coteau of the Missouri. Horses all doing well; no “playing out”. Made a long stretch in the afternoon, crossing Old Wife’s Creek at a good crossing place and camping there; slight current, sandy bottom, water only a few inches deep, but good; very little grass. About 9 p.m., the horses of “D” Troop stampeded, carrying away some of “B” Troop which were grazing near them. All were brought in and tied up. Hopples only impede horses; many of them can canter with hopples on. Have determined now to keep all horses tied up after dark, no matter how little chance they may have for feeding.

Friday, 21st ---Started at 5:30; little time to feed in the morning; stopped when three hours out, and gave the horses forty minutes feed, on a tolerable good patch of grass; arrived at crossing of creek about 11 a.m., and found a party of half-breeds there, with Pere Lestaing. Levallee’s brother was one of the party, and I engaged him as a guide back. Camped in the evening at a small marsh; very poor water, not much feed. Arranged in the evening for Macleod and Walker, with a party of 27 oxen, and as many men, to go for the oats to the Boundary Commission Depot at White Mud River. Although we made such a long march the horses came in well, nearly all together.

Saturday, 22nd ---For a change we had a shower of rain this morning, the first since leaving Dufferin, I may say. Macleod’s party delayed in their start until noon, owing to the carelessness of the man in charge of the cattle, who let them out early in the morning, and having put no one in charge of them they wandered off five or six miles. Marched in the afternoon and camped at a creek 7 ½ miles out; water rather brackish, grass short but apparently sweet. Overhauled a half-breed train going to Wood Mountain, but found no liquor. Tried to buy some horses (or ponies rather) but found the price too high, 150 to 200 dollars.

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Sunday, 23rd ---Camped on branch of Old Wife’s Creek. Service at 10:30 as usual. Made several observations for time latitude, magnetic variation.

Monday, 24th ---Left at 6 a.m. Halted when 11 miles out, at a place where there was no grass, and only alkaline water; moved on three miles and halted at a good swamp, where the horses had a good meal of rushes, cut some and brought them along for feed at night. Arrived at Strong Current Creek at 8 p.m. This creek flows from the Cypress Hills to the Elbow of the Saskatchewan; banks are very steep; land improving in appearance, the grass is not quite so parched looking. The Cypress Hills in view this p.m. towards S.W.

Tuesday, 25th ---Left at 7:30 a.m. Having to cut down the banks somewhat and make a crossing. Road strikes north here to avoid creeks. We are travelling on the Plain Hunters’ trail that we crossed yesterday. Arrived about noon at a valley in the Cypress Hills, where the Plain Hunters and the Indians have been encamped. Grass not very good, water bad and difficult access for horses.

Wednesday, 26th ---Camped at same place. Sent out to search for better water and grass. The guide Morrin shot a cabri, the first game, excepting ducks and prairie chickens, since leaving Dufferin. Plenty of tracts of buffalo, but they have been driven away from here lately. Red cedar reported on hills in vicinity.

Thursday, 27th ---Had a little rain in the morning, went out and looked up a place for to camp, and where the grass and water was better than here. Most of the little ponds and lakes hereabouts are salt, but have found out a couple of swamps where the water is all right. Have managed to shoe 22 of the oxen, they all require it now. Sent back a scout to meet Macleod’s party, and shew them our crossing at the Strong Current Creek.

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Friday, 28th ---Had some rain in the morning, just enough to make the ground sticky. Weather warm in the afternoon. Had intended moving a few miles to change pasture ground for the horses, but prefer to wait until to-morrow, as the road would be too heavy and there would be no actual necessity for a move.

Saturday, 29th ---Have fired a rocket the past few nights as a signal in case Macleod’s party are within 30 miles or so, but there has been no response as yet. Moved this afternoon about four miles west. The ducks, geese and cabri seem to be pretty numerous hereabouts. Sent some ox carts off for wood to hills opposite; they did not return till near 11 p.m.

Sunday, 30th ---The horses were out to graze this morning at daybreak, but they were only out a quarter of an hour, when the bulk of them stampeded from some unknown cause. Some say a snake in the grass where they were feeding. Fortunately they were not able to go very far as they were either hoppled or knee-haltered. Some broke their fastenings, however, and a large proportion of them managed to get off fully two miles before they were stopped. When brought in and mustered, I found all present fortunately.

Monday, 31st ---Walker arrived and reported Macleod 12 miles back. Macleod arrived. We started about 2:30 p.m. Sent Chapman back with the guide with letters, & c. Also a French speaking sub-constable to the Cripple Camp, the one left there being of doubtful character apparently. Made about 9 miles, camped at a good sized lake.

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SEPTEMBER:

Tuesday, 1st ---Started about 7 a.m., and made about 10 miles. Made about 6 miles more in the afternoon, and, finding good grass, water and wood, halted although it was only 4 p.m. A very large camp of Indians had been at this place for a considerable time, probably three or four hundred lodges.

Wednesday, 2nd ---Started about 7 a.m. When out about two hours rode up to the advance guard, and observed some moving objects near the left flankers, rode out there, flankers thought they were ponies. On going a little further I felt certain they were buffaloes. Presently they began running, leaving no doubt in the matter. I took a carbine from one of the men, and made after them, headed them and turned them towards the train, fired at one which dropped back, and was despatched by some one else; three went across the creek, I went after them, and was joined by the Scout Morreau and Levallee, we each shot one, I fired into the Scout’s buffalo as he stood at bay, and dropped him. This was a very fine beast about 10 years old; he made, when dressed, 953 lbs. ration meat.

Thursday, 3rd ---Left at 7 a.m. I find that although 1720 lbs. of ration meat were issued yesterday, from the two buffaloes which had cut up, there is nothing to shew for three others which had been killed, the half-breeds merely cutting slices of the meat off, and carrying it along. Jullien ran a buffalo, and killed him. I came in for the finish, had the beast cut up, and brought in on an ox cart. The men having plenty of meat, I had this fellow cut up, placed in one of the water barrels and well salted. The salt we had carried so far now comes in useful. There being no grass had to make a stretch of 17 ½ miles without halting. Next stage 20 miles no water.

Friday, 4th ---Left at 5 a.m. made a stretch of 15 miles, a number of coules to be crossed, halted in a wide coule in afternoon, made a march of 5 miles, and camped in a deep ravine, had to lock the waggons going down. Employed an officer and 25 men in cutting down the bad places to allow our passing up to-morrow morning. Seven Sioux came into camp this evening. It appears they were with some half-breeds when our advanced guard passed, and seeing no carts they put us down as Blackfeet. After passing they crept up a ravine till they crossed our trail, they caught up with the rear guard about 2 p.m., and as a precautionary measure loaded their guns. Our people seeing this extended in skirmishing order, but a Sioux who could speak French came forward unarmed and explained matters. We gave them some tea, buffalo meat, biscuits and ammunition, which apparently much pleased them. A few small presents go a long way in showing the Indians that we came as friends.

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Saturday, 5th ---Left at 5 a.m., and had all hands at work to help the waggons up the hill. An ox and two carts fell over the edge of the Ravine. Fortunately, but little damage was done to ox or loads. Halted at a coule, little water or grass. Our guide knows the road no further, and we are in the hands of Morreau, the Scout, whose reputation is doubtful; however, having kept a careful record of the angles and distances since leaving the B.C. road, on the 3rd August last, and this checked by observations for latitude and magnetic variation will enable me to keep a close check on him. If Palliser’s map is correct, (which it is certainly not in some places), we are now 83 miles from the Forks of the Bow and Belly rivers and 18 miles north. I shot a buffalo in the afternoon; it was properly cut up, and the meat brought in.

Sunday, 6th ---Started at 2:30 p.m. to get pasture, which the Scout reported five miles ahead, he brought us a very northerly course. I objected to halt in the coule which he pointed out as there was no grass there, sent him on to another one about 1 1/2 miles, when he returned, and had the assurance to state it was the Belly River, and that we were at our journey’s end, and that the Bow River was just a mile down. I told him we were at least 70 miles from Bow River, and asked him to show me Bow River, and on going to the place indicated, found it was merely a turn of the river. We have in fact struck the South Saskatchewan half a day sooner than I expected, but an error of 8 or 10 miles in Palliser’s map is a trifle. The Scout insists that the Forks are 12 miles north. I took it as a special dispensation of Providence, my having kept a careful record of the angles and distances since we left the B.C. road. There is not a soul in camp that knows this place, and the Scout has brought us nearly a day’s march out of our road during the last two days, and he would make it still worse to-morrow. I am not quite certain whether his actions are due to ignorance or design. He is the greatest liar I have ever met. He is suspected as being a spy of the whoop up villains, but there is nothing definite or tangible to show this. Although I have never been here I will do the guide myself to-morrow. If I could have relied on Palliser’s map, I would have taken this duty sooner.

Monday, 7th ---Left at 5 a.m. Finding fair grass about 4 1/2 miles out, stopped to feed horses and cattle. The buffaloes hitherto shot have been bulls, but to-day a large herd, containing a number of cows and calves, ran close to the line of the march, about 10 of them were killed. No grass or water, had liquid mud for tea. All day to-day kept on a ridge from 2 to 3 miles from the river, and thereby avoided crossing a number of short deep coules flowing into the Saskatchewan. Found coal on river bank.

Tuesday, 8th ---Started about 6 a.m. Sent back for a horse that was too weak to reach camp, but had to leave him. No grass or water to signify. Camped on the edge of a deep coule close to the river. Cold rain and heavy wind set in from the north west about 10 p.m.

Wednesday, 9th ---Let out the horses at daylight to endeavour to pick up a little grass. No feed, horses running about to try and keep themselves warm. Sent the horses into the ravine for water, and to be out of the wind. Rain being over at 10 a.m., and there being no food, I started off. 5 of the horses paralyzed from cold and hunger, and could not get out of the ravine; 3 others little better, the 5 died in a few hours. Left a party behind to bring on the other horses. Camped near Sand Hills, after crossing a ridge from which we saw the “Trois Buttes”.

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Thursday, 10th ---A horse of “B” Troop left behind last night died, one of “F” Troop also died. I had a blanket taken from every officer and man last night, so that each horse was covered and protected from the cold rain and wind, which set in about 9 p.m. I begin to feel very much alarmed for the safety of the Force. If a few hours’ cold rain kills off a number of horses, what would be the effect of a 24 hours’ snow storm. On the 20th September last year there was a three days’ snow storm in the district between the Cypress Hills, Wood Mountains and Old Wife’s Creek; I cannot possibly get back there till the first week in October. If I could get 5 or 6 tons of hay cut to bring along in our waggons to meet such a difficulty, I would feel more at ease, but the buffalo have scarcely left a blade of grass over 3 inches in length. Made 7 miles, but had to halt as the rear guard was delayed several hours owing to Mr. B. Not having obeyed my positive order with reference to a horse left behind close to last night’s camping ground. A river runs into the Saskatchewan. I am doubtful whether it may not be the Bow River; have sent, both there and 10 miles west, to explore. The party gone west report the river narrow. The other party not in, probably lost their way.

Friday, 11th ---This party did lose their way, but they saw a rocket we sent up, and got in about 11 p.m. last night. There can be little doubt but that it is the Bow River. We went north this morning to find a crossing on the Belly River, but after losing much time, we were unable to find one. Worked west for 5 or 6 miles along the river, and finding a little grass in a coule halted there. Horses starving, the oats just keep them up.

Saturday, 12th ---Camped on the Belly River. Conferred with the Assistant Commisioner and the Inspectors as to the present aspect of affairs. There was but one opinion regarding the portion of the Force going back, viz., that it should return forthwith. All feel satisfied that it would be impossible to take the stores through to Edmonton, owing to the condition of the horses. A post on this part of the Bow River or Belly River is out of the question, as there is neither grass or wood here, and not much wood apparently on Bow River near the junction. The Sweet Grass Hills or West Butte, near Boundary Line, promises well for a post: good grass, good wood and water, and only about 80 miles from Benton, an important point as we will have to obtain our provisions there in any case. I understand that the whiskey traders are not here now, but are about Benton, and propose remaining there till the Force returns east. A post at or near the Boundary Line will spoil their little game. The Fort! ! ! at the Forks of the Bow and Belly Rivers turns out to be three log huts without roofs in which some fellows occasionally stopped when trapping or rather poisoning wolves. I have sent out a party to explore for the Fort, 15 miles from the Forks, but as there is no trail in the vicinity, I doubt their finding it. “The Forts” are apparently log shanties, in which trappers or traders pass the winter, and they are usually burnt down when they leave, as was the case with the one in the Cypress Hills, where the Assiniboines were murdered in the spring of 1873. Although most of the ruffians were murderers from Benton, “Whoop Up”, as far as I can understand, is the only Fort which has a local habitation as well as a name. It is principally a trading post of the firm of Baker & Co. of Benton, highly respectable merchants who do not sell whiskey or spirits. The only actual indication of whiskey trading as yet discovered is the head of a cask with Kelly, Bourbon, printed thereon, found on the beach, the first doubtless distiller of the Bourbon whiskey. I have sent a party 20 miles west to find the “Whoop Up” road, said to exist about here. There is no doubt a large trail; in fact, a well travelled road passes north by the Porcupine Hills, but this is too far off for us to touch now. Our guide Morreau says that “Whoop Up” is only 40 miles off, but he is such an out and out liar, and hitherto has proved so utterly useless as a guide that no one believes him.

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Sunday, 13th ---Welch returned this morn. He says he was about 30 miles west, found no signs of a road, not a blade of grass to be seen, buffalo moving south in thousands. Moved camp about 2 miles west to change feeding ground, if nibbling on a bare plain can be called feeding. Denny’s party not back yet. Two men after buffalo were lost, fired rockets after them.
771 1/2 miles
Add 10 miles to above, viz., 2 1/2 per c. on 400 10
871 1/2 miles


Monday, 14th ---Two men came in, also Sergeant Lake. Two out of the three horses paralyzed by cold and hunger died, making 9 horses killed in 36 hours from this cause. A good many in camp look as if they have not much longer to live. Denny’s party not in. I must leave this p.m., and strike south. Ice on water last night. Left a little after 4 p.m. Very anxious about Denny’s party, and fear they may have come to mischief. When marching off observed what might be buffalo or Indians. After some time, to my great delight, made them out to be Denny’s party. Mr. Levallee states that it would be almost impossible to take horses through, that we would certainly lose most of them. He has been up the Bow River for 70 or 80 miles. There is neither wood or grass. Country very rough to make a road through, and bad hills ahead. Although I had sent Inspector Walsh with 70 men and 58 horses across the river, en route to Edmonton, I am compelled to counterorder it, and instruct him to follow up the main Force to the West Butte, near the Boundary Commission road, and pick up any played out horses or oxen that we may leave behind. Oxen starving now. The horses can pick up a little of the grass left by the buffalo, but the poor oxen cannot do this. On following up the Force, overtook an ox-waggon, 3 miles out, completely played out. Carvell and I put our horses in, and took it on to Camp. 5 oxen unable to reach Camp. Denny’s party met a large war party of Assiniboine Indians, who would not let them approach.

The NWMP crossing Belly River, September 14th, 1874

Tueday, 15th ---Sent a half-breed and one of our men back to Cripple Camp at Old Wife’s Creek with instructions to the constable there to send as much oats and hay as possible across to the B.C. Road to meet us. 3 of the 5 oxen had to be left behind. Halted when 6 miles out at a lake about 3 miles long and 1/4 wide. As I was the first to see it, and as it is not shewn on any map, proposed to call it ‘Commissioner’s Lake”. The half-breeds christened it, by piling up a heap of stones on the bank, and firing a salute of 14 rounds, shouting “Hurrah for le Colonel” at each discharge. Had to leave 5 oxen behind here. As there is little grass and plenty of water, I hope Walsh will be able to bring them along. I have instructed him to detail a rear guard, to follow slowly, and bring along everything left behind. Marched in afternoon over a plateau bare as usual. Buffalo in every direction. Centre Butte and West Butte showing up well in our front.

Wednesday, 16th ---Started at 7 a.m. Grass very poor. Water mere mud trampled into paste by the buffalo. Oxen playing out still.

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Thursday, 17th ---Left at 5 a.m. before breakfast, made 8 miles, halting in valley of river, probably Milk River. Wind north with rain very cold. Started at 4 p.m., and camped behind a ridge. Drew up the waggons in two lines, tents touching each other, and in front of waggons, thus breaking the force of the wind almost altogther. Corralled the horses behind the waggons, and blanketed them, fed with oats, taking a blanket from every man. 3 horses dropped down on the road, and another after reaching Camp, their famished frames having no power to resist the cold.

Friday, 18th ---Left at 8 a.m. Snow on the Buttes ahead. Saw the Rocky Mountains to the westward from a ridge, about 10 miles from West Butte. Camped in a coule close to the West Butte. Had to leave all the oxen 4 miles in rear, being too weak to come thus far. Found coal in coule.

Saturday, 19th ---Remain at same place, water being good. Grass tolerable. Started our forge with the coal thus opportunely found. Sent Macleod and a guide out at 8 a.m. to look for the Boundary Commission road or monuments. By noon observation I fancy we are 6 1/2 miles north of Boundary Line. Prospected around and found some good specimens of coal and iron ore.

Sunday, 20th ---Remain at same place, horses very weak. Walsh rejoined us with his party, reports having lost 6 horses out of his 57. One of his men was lost for several days, and a party sent back by him managed to get a horse, lost or stolen more likely. Went out with Macleod and Levallee to look for B.C. depot, found it to the West Butte. Rode over 30 miles.

Dead Horse Valley

Monday, 21st ----Making arrangements for departure of “D” and “E” Troops. Left in afternoon with D and E troops. Struck Boundary road about 7 miles south, moved east along it for a mile, and camped on coule. Excellent feed for horses and cattle. Quite a treat to see the poor beasts get a good meal at last.

Tuesday, 22nd ---Left the two troops in charge of Carvell with instructions to move slowly, halting wherever there was good feed, and to meet me at a lake 8 miles N.E. from crossing of Milk River. Started for Benton with Macleod and party of 8 others to communicate with Government and obtain supplies. Rapid travelling with empty carts. Made about 42 miles.

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Wednesday, 23rd ---Saw immense quantities of buffalo, estimated at 70 or 80 thousand by Macleod and I. Road very crooked; but little water. Kept going until 10:30 p.m., making about 522 miles.

Thursday, 24th ---Started early. Crossed the Maria River and the Teton 11 times, reaching Benton about noon. Gave out that I wanted to purchase horses, inquiring as to prices of stores, & c.

Friday, 25th ---Purchased some moccasins, boots, stockings, gloves, & c., for the men and some corn and oats for the horses. Bought 15 horses. Left one with Macleod. Prices generally very low. Obtained full particulars as to the murders at the Cypress Hills. Bought a waggon and double set of harness to assist in carrying out supplies.

Saturday 26th ---Started at noon, rather a poor start, half-breeds suffering from the extra stock of liquor laid in. Some horses baulky. One of them broke the pole of the waggon, had to camp and send back for another.

Sunday, 27th ---A good deal of trouble getting up hill with horses. I have only three half- breeds, a guide, a drover, 2 men and myself to manage everything. I drove the waggon, purchased two more new horses on the road. We now have 4 carts, one waggon and 31 horses to look after, our hands are full. Kept going until 10:30 p.m., made about 33 miles.

Monday, 28th ---Kept going ahead all day. Made about 25 miles. Good deal of trouble hoppling, unhoppling and harnessing with so few men. In assisting with waggon got pulled off my horse, falling on my shoulder and thereby knocking me off the effective list, - a matter of some moment when we are so short handed.

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Tuesday, 29th ---Sighted the Milk River shortly after starting. About 5 p.m. came across a party of Assiniboines on foot, they said they were going to steal hoses from the Blackfeet. Gave then some coffee and some biscuits. Two of them had Henry rifles. Crossed Milk River and met our people at lake N.E. 8 miles therefrom. The following distances were travelled by the main body after my leaving it for Benton, viz:
22nd....................................10 1/2 miles
23rd.....................................14 1/2 "
24th.....................................21 3/4 "
25th.....................................22 1/2 "


Wednesday, 30th --- French led “D” and “E” Troops back east, eventually establishing the first headquarters of the Force at Swan River, Manitoba.

Macleod led “B”, “C” and “F” Troops north to Fort Whoop Up at the junction of the Belly and St. Mary rivers. There they found that the whiskey traders had learned of the mounted police’s approach and had gone out of business. They then went on further westward and built Fort Macleod, becoming the first fortified presence of the Force on the frontier.